French Ka Kamaal

I write this post at the request of my friend Aloysius Deepak of Edventure Trips because I have been there. Though of course it was more than two decades ago, and since I have very vague memories of it except that it was pretty cold when I went there, with no photographs, I have done some online research and here's what I came up with.

History: Saint-Malo, which was one of the most important ports of 17th and 18th century France and also a lair to Corsairs or Pirates, traces its origins to a monastic settlement founded by Saint Aaron and Saint Brendan early in the 6th century. Its name is derived from a man said to have been a follower of Brendan, Saint Malo or Maclou. Apparently called Mac'h Low Saint Malo is said to have been Welsh. Getting there: There are TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse, high-speed train) direct trains from Paris and Rennes to Saint-Malo. It is alao a major terminal for ferry services from England (Poole, Portsmouth and Weymouth). There's also an airport at Dinnard (about 5 kms from Saint-Malo) with direct flights from London, Guernsey and Northampton.

An old map of St. Malo. Via: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Map_Saint-Malo.jpg

What to see and do:
The Cité d’Aleth (The St-Malo Citadel)

The walled grey granite Old Town of St-Malo is the main tourist attraction for visitors to the area. With its atmospheric narrow streets, bustling bars, restaurants and shops, the citadel makes an ideal base for a long weekend break in Brittany.

Perched on a granite island, the Old Town was originally only accessible by a long causeway. This changed in modern times with the construction of the inner harbours joining the citadel to the mainland.

Today, although the buildings give the impression of great age, they are almost all the result of a staggering reconstruction project which returned the town to its former glory after WWII. This project was only officially completed in 1971. This part of the town was bombed and burned in 1944, during WWII

It is possible to walk almost the complete circuit of the walls and this refreshing promenade provides some wonderful vistas. In addition, the town's beaches can be easily accessed from various points on the way.

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		1. Chateau de St-Malo The impressive Castle of St-Malo acts as the town hall and is also home to the Museum of St-Malo.The museum covers a number of themes including the long maritime history of St-Malo, 19th century writers of which Chateaubriand is the most well known, WWII occupation and the destruction/ reconstruction of the town.
		2. Cathedrale St-Vincent The tall spire of the Cathedrale St-Vincent soars above the streets of the Old Town and is clearly visible to visitors arriving by sea.There has been a church on the site since the 12th century with the current gothic cathedral dating to the 13th. A plaque in the aisle commemorates the departure of explorer Jacques Cartier to Canada. Though Jacques Cartier is generally believed to be the man who discovered Canada, in reality, there had been many European Explorers who'd been there Cartier was the man who planted the French Flag on Canada and claimed it for King Francis, of France.
		3. Porte St-Vincent The main entrance into the citadel is via the Porte St-Vincent gate. Immediately inside and to the front of the Castle is Place Chateaubriand, the liveliest part of the Old Town and home to numerous hotels and restaurants.Outside this entrance are the inner commercial harbours of St-Malo.
		4. Demeure de Corsaire Also known as the L'Hotel d'Asfeld, this 18th century mansion block is one of the few buildings to survive the war intact. It was built by the wealthy ship owner and director of the French East India Company, Francois-Auguste Magon.To gain an insight into the lives of St-Malo's rich merchants, it's possible to take a guided tour around parts of the building.
		5. Porte de Dinan Located at the south facing walls, this is the place to go for those interested in taking a boat trip. Ferries make the short hop to Dinard as well as longer excursions up river to Dinan and west along the coast to Cap Frehel.It also marks the start of the Mole des Noires, a long curved jetty with a lighthouse which gives an alternative view of the citadel.
		6. Statue of Robert Surcouf Further on from the Porte des Bes, which provides access to the northern end of Plage de Bon Secours, is the Champs Vauverts and a statue of the famous corsair, Robert Surcouf.At the north west corner of the ramparts, the bulk of the Tower Bidouane hosts various temporary exhibitions.

The Tour Solidor (The Solidor Tower)

Located in the former city of Saint-Servan (which merged with Saint-Malo in 1967), It was built between 1369 and 1382 by John V, Duke of Brittany (i.e. Jean IV in French) to control access to the Rance at a time when the city of Saint-Malo did not recognize his authority. Over the centuries the tower lost its military interest and became a jail. It is now a museum celebrating Breton sailors exploring Cape Horn.

Manor Limoëlou

Manor Limoëlou (sixteenth century) is located in the district of Rotheneuf, in the town of Saint-Malo (Ille-et-Vilaine). It is the unique legacy of Jacques Cartier, discoverer of Canada in 1534 and opened in France on the North American continent by way of the St. Lawrence River. It is subject to registration as a historic monument since 21 February 19402. To repet, though Jacques Cartier is generally believed to be the man who discovered Canada, in reality, there had been many European Explorers who'd been there Cartier was the man who planted the French Flag on Canada and claimed it for King Francis, of France.

Les rochers sculptés

5 km from Thermes Marins, towards Cancale, the carved rocks (rochers sculptés) at Rothéneuf, a strange world populated by characters from another time. In the 19th century Father Fourré started sculpting the rock creating a huge naïve style sculpture

The Grand bé and petit bé islands

Small uninhabited islands at the entrance to the Rance estuary and below the ramparts, the Grand Bé is a tidal peninsula where at low tide you can visit the grave of Chateaubriand, the famous writer born in Saint-Malo.
Close by, Le Petit Bé, a small castle built by Vauban in the 17th century to defend the town.

Fort National

A historic building built in 1689 by the military architect Vauban to protect the port of Saint Malo. All tours with an experienced tour guide. Accessible by foot at low tide, the Fort National, with its granite walls built into the rock will give you an experience more than three centuries of military history.

Tidal Energy plant of the rance estuary

Built between 1961 and 1966, the plant bridges a link by landbetween Dinard and St Malo. With some of the highest tides
in the world (14ft tidal range), the plant produces 600,000,000 kWh per year.
Free entry to the dam by the Dinard side of the bridge.

Saint-Malo Golf

Along the Emerald Coast, 15 minutes from Saint-Malo, the Saint-Malo Golf Resort *** is a must. The 27 hole domain is spread over more than one hundred hectares, bordering the Mesnil forest (hunting grounds to Robert Surcouf, the famous privateer (1773-1827), whose flag can be seen from the greens…)

Surf School

A sailing school next to the Thermes Marins offering water sports such as windsurfing, sand sailing, catamaran, surfing…
Tel. : 33 (0)2.99.40.07.47
www.surfschool.org
Special Rate: Ask for the Surf School Pass at reception

The beaches of Saint-Malo

At the foot of the ramparts, Bon Secours beach and its seawater swimming pool in front of the Grand Bé.
Mole Beach, also below the ramparts.
Evantail beach in front of the Fort National.
The vast Sillon beach which stretches from Saint Malo to Paramé.
Minihic Beach and Pont Beach from Paramé to Rothéneuf.
And many more beaches to discover from Rothéneuf to Cancale …

Cancale

A resort located 15 km from Saint-Malo, Cancale is a picturesque fishing port which nestles under the cliffs, renowned for its oysters with oyster beds visible at low tide.

Dinard

A holiday hot-spot for the British during the 19th century, Dinard is a beautiful holiday town which still contains the charm and
architecture of the past with plenty of tourist attractions (great market on Saturday mornings all year round).

Dinan

Former medieval town of the Dukes of Brittany, Dinan rises above the Rance Estuary. Visit the medieval ramparts and streets and the English garden.

Le Mont Saint-Michel

55 km from Saint-Malo, this is one of France's most recognisable landmarks, Mont Saint-Michel and its bay are part of the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites and more than 3 million people visit it each year…

What to do:

Watch the impressive tide.

Walk (or jog) along the beach.

Walk around the walls of the walled city(free).

Visit the Festival des Folklores du Monde (World Folklores), which takes place at the beginning of July. There are dance and music performances from around the world. You can also dance when Celtic Breton bands play music in the main square of Parame district.

Look at the many hundreds of sailing boats of all sizes and ages in the harbour/s.

What to eat:

Saint-Malo is a great place to sample Breton specialties.

Breton Pancakes: not just the world-famous sweet crêpes, but also savoury galettes. (St. Malo is considered the crêpe capital of the world)
Kouing Aman: this is a delicious Breton cake made with butter and sugar. Try to sample them piping hot, especially the ones with apple added in.
Mussels (moules): fished in the place and available in any restaurants.
Oysters (huitres): the best are from Cancale, a village near to Saint-Malo. In France, they are eaten raw.

Crêpes are made from flour and served with butter/jam/honey/chocolates. They generally are eaten for dessert or breakfast.
On the other hand galettes are usually salty and made with buckwheat. They traditionally replaced bread as basic food and they can be served with butter/cheese/sausages/bacon/mushrooms/eggs. They can be accompanied by a breton buttermilk called lait ribot.